Thursday, February 19, 2009

Surfing success

Chris hanging out in the green room (not really)

While Chris has been ripping up the overhead waves on Playa Negra lately, I have been struggling in vain to understand this crazy sport we call surfing. I may not be the most coordinated person in the world, but never have I encountered a sport where the initial learning curve is so steep - almost vertical I think. I tried surfing a couple of times in Mexico and El Salvador, but never really put my mind to it, so I figured while we're living on the beach in Costa Rica for several weeks, I'll really give it a go. I borrowed an epoxy longboard from Bob, our friendly landlord, and vigilantly got in the water a couple of times a day for two weeks. During this time I only managed to thoroughly cleanse my sinuses with salt water, get frustrated and/or freaked out when I banged my feet on rocks, and feel close to tears when another wave heading towards me filled me with an overwhelming sense of dread. After a particularly frustrating morning with a huge foam board (the easiest to learn on) and baby waves still left me near tears, I was ready to give up forever. Chris convinced me to give it one more try, this last time with a teacher (besides him). And it was like a miracle. Friendly Walter of the Avellanas Surf School had me standing up on waves on about the third try, and after a couple of hours with Walter, I am now able to catch waves on my own. Granted, this is all on an 8-foot foam board, but surfing is now officially fun.

Kristin surfing a barreling waist-high killer wave

1 comment:

  1. Nice work SparkleGirl!

    Chris, first off I love the photo of you bailing, but how come there are no photos of you pulling your "flying monkey" off the back of the wave? And those smaller waves look perfect for a little game of battle boards. Ahhh the good old days.....

    The only waves I catch these days is from the storm surge generated by my son in the bath tub. All the toys manage to surf their way right out of the tub and all over the floor. The bathroom ends up looking liking hurricane Katrina rolled through every night.


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